Iron Fallout

Iron fallout removers use a thioglycolic acid salt that reacts with the iron oxide layer on embedded brake dust and metal particles. The reaction converts rust into a water-soluble purple compound, which shrinks and loosens the particle so it can be rinsed away. The purple colour is the reaction happening. More purple appearing faster means a stronger, more complete reaction. The chemistry is spent once it has reacted, so a second application is needed on heavily contaminated surfaces.

Apply to a dried, freshly rinsed panel for best results. A wet surface dilutes the product before it can react with embedded contamination, which reduces dwell effectiveness. If spraying on a hot wheel, wet the surface first to cool it slightly, then apply the product and ensure it stays wet for the full dwell time. A cool, dry surface lets the product sit neat and gives the strongest, most complete reaction.

Allow roughly 2 to 5 minutes depending on surface temperature. The key rule is to keep it from fully drying before you rinse. If it dries on the wheel or panel, the purple complex can re-oxidise and leave a gold or brown film. The fix is to spray more fallout remover over it to re-trigger the reaction, allow it to turn purple again, then rinse promptly. Never walk away and leave it unattended on a hot surface in summer.

No. Do not use a thioglycolate-based iron remover on ceramic brake discs or pads. Ceramic brakes produce minimal iron fallout so there is nothing for the product to react with, and residue from the remover can temporarily reduce braking performance on ceramic surfaces. Use a pH-neutral APC such as Gtechniq W5 Citrus APC instead for cleaning ceramic brake components.